Care Instructions
Holland Lops
Feeding - This information is a good starting point and is based on the feed we use (Nutrena Naturewise Premium Rabbit 15%) You will likely have to adjust the amounts up or down a little based on your individual bunny and chosen feed (scroll down further to see more advice on this.)
How much and how often to feed:
-Weaned to 10 weeks of age: free choice (ensure bunny always has feed 24 hours a day)
-10 to 12 weeks of age: 1/4 cup feed twice a day
-12 weeks and older: 2/3 cup once a day
All Rabbits
Rabbits should be VERY excited at feeding time. They usually pace and hop around excitedly when you feed them and they should wolf down the first quarter of their food immediately. If they aren't doing this, check their water, they stop eating if they can't get water.
Watering - Rabbits need access to fresh, clean water 24 hours a day. Rabbits have to drink water while they're eating. They will stop eating if they don't have water. A good water bottle is very important, and one with a large enough ball and spout so the rabbit can get a good flow of water while eating. Do not use bottles smaller than 32 oz or the rabbit will have a hard time consuming enough water quickly enough while eating. An adult rabbit should be drinking at least 32 oz of water every 3 - 5 days. If you notice your bunny not eating check that they can get water. Going off feed is often the first sign that a rabbit is dehydrated.
Note that a slowly leaking water bottle can trick you into thinking your rabbit is drinking water as the water level will go down without you noticing it's slowly leaking all day. There are lots of lousy water bottles on the market that slowly leak but do not dispense at all. Be sure your bunny is drinking water and that there isn't a leak. In our supplies link we list a water bottle that we know works well. This is the 32 oz Lixit Deluxe. You can also use a crock to water a rabbit, and although this is the most efficient way for a rabbit to drink, you need to change the water twice a day and wash the crock once a week.
Adjusting Feed Amounts - When you're petting your bunny run your hand over the back and hips and gently feel the ribs. If bunny's ribs are very pronounced and easy to feel, and the hips protrude and feel bony then increase the feed amount a bit. If the ribs feel meaty and the hips are fairly smooth and don't poke you then bunny is just about right. If you can't feel ribs at all, there are fat rolls and you can't find the hips at all, decrease the feed a bit.
Treats: Do not give rabbits under 5 months of age treats! Their digestive systems cannot handle them and you can make them very sick! For rabbits 5 months and older we recommend no more than two treats per week. Examples of popular rabbit treats include: a few baby carrots, half a whole carrot, an apple slice, a leaf of green leaf lettuce, 1/2 tablespoon raw shelled sunflower seeds, alfalfa cubes that are intended for rabbits. There are LOTS of fun rabbit treats, but please do a little internet research first. There are some items that can make rabbits sick.
Recommended feed ingredients: Look for Copper Sulfate (prevents a common parasitic disease called Coccidiosis) and Yucca Schidigera Extract (Yucca plant extract that reduces the production of ammonia during digestion which reduces urine odor). These supplements are not in all rabbit feeds, but they are extremely beneficial and we highly recommend feeds that include them.
Rabbits can be picky eaters, don't be surprised if they turn there noses up at some feeds and wolf down others. Transition feeds slowly. If you need to change feeds mix your current feed with your new feed gradually over about 14 days slowly increasing the new feed into the mixture until they are completely on the new feed. Rabbits have very sensitive digestive systems.
If your rabbit digs at and spills the food out of the dish: Try raising the dish about 4 inches so that the rabbit has to stand on his/her tippy toes to reach the food. If they have to stand on their front feet to eat (vs laying down) they can't dig. I use metal dishes that I can drill holes in the bottom of so that I can wire the dish to the side of the cage a few inches up so they can't reach it to dig. Also, J-feeders have a lip on the inside of the feeder that helps prevent the feed from being spilled if they dig at their feed.
Cold/Freezing Weather:
Watering during freezing weather - At a minimum, ensure the rabbit has access to water for an hour at a time at least twice a day. Always ensure the rabbit has access to water while feeding.
Rabbits can easily handle very cold temperatures as long as they have access to liquid water and the temperature change is gradual. However, if there is a drastic change in temperature (lows decrease more than 20 degrees in 24 hours) they will be stressed and should be brought in to the garage or somewhere warmer. In other words, if the lows have been in the 40s for several days and all of sudden in one day they drop to the 20s, you should probably bring the bunny into the garage or somewhere prior to the temp dropping that fast. Abrupt temperature changes are hard on them. Gradual temperature changes are fine. They can do just fine in subzero temps if they're already used to it.
Hot weather: Rabbits do not like hot weather. Ensure the cage/hutch is in the shade. If it gets over 80 fill a two-liter plastic bottle 2/3 with water and freeze it. Then put the frozen bottle in their cage and they'll lay next to it to cool off. You can also carefully mist or wet their ears (don't get water into the canal). Rabbits use their ears to cool off. Our rabbits seem to do o.k. in the shade, with frozen two-liter bottles up to 100 degrees. They also like lots of ventilation and moving air when it's hot.
Toenail Clipping: Just like dogs and cats, rabbits need their toenails clipped. They get VERY sharp nails that can result in painful scratches, especially to children. A well handled rabbit will happily let you cut it's nails with a dog or cat nail trimmer. We're happy to show you how to do this, or to do it for you if you bought one of our bunnies. Just contact us!
Worming/disease/etc: Rabbits can get worms/parasites/ear mites/fur mites similar to what dogs and cats can get. This can be prevented by not letting your rabbit get on the ground or eat lawn/grass. Do not pick and feed your bunny grass or clover/plants from your yard, this is where the worm/parasites typically come from, especially if you have dogs/cats or if your yard is frequented by wildlife such as racoons, squirrels, etc. Rabbits can easily be treated for worms and mites with products available at feed/farm stores. However - most of these products aren't labeled or dosed for rabbits, and some dewormers and mite treatments are not safe for rabbits. Please contact your vet, us, or do some reading/research prior to using these products. Also note that pet store, feed/farm store employees typically know very little about rabbits. Rabbits are not common enough for average clerks to know much about, so please be careful when treating rabbits yourself.
Although it's rather rare for a rabbit that lives in a hutch at least three feet off the ground or in an indoor set-up to get sick, there are diseases rabbits can get. If you notice unusual symptoms such as thick white mucous coming out of the nose, lots of sneezing, tiredness, diarrhea etc. Contact us or a vet for advice. There are a couple of vets in Eugene and Creswell that treat rabbits and we can help you find them. A typical vet visit for a rabbit is $60 - $80. We also may be able to help you utilize products available at feed stores to help treat some problems. Feel free to contact us!
Fleas: If your bunny gets fleas you can use a product called Advantage for small dogs and puppies. Only use this product when your bunny is over two pounds (about 4-months old for a Holland Lop and 2-months old for a Californian). Follow the directions for Advantage for a puppy, and make sure it's applied where the bunny can't lick it off. Advantage is a liquid product that is applied behind the neck of the animal. You can find it at most pet and feed stores.
Another option is to dust the bunny with diatomaceous earth, which is a harmless product that can be found at garden stores for slug and snail control. Diatomaceous earth is natural occuring and does not contain chemicals, it works by dehydrating insects to death. You would apply this directly to and work into the fur avoiding the eyes. Although I've never used it, there is a lot of reference to it for flea control in rabbits.
DO NOT USE FRONTLINE ON RABBITS, it's very toxic for rabbits. Also DO NOT use flea dip products on rabbits.
If your bunny is outside and 3-feet off the ground fleas should not be a problem. Fleas may be a problem if your bunny is inside and you have cats or dogs that are not treated for fleas.
Life Span: 7 - 10 years if disease free and well taken care of.
Recommended references: There are lots of blogs, internet articles, books, etc with great information on rabbits. Note that there is a significant difference in how to raise rabbits as a breeder with lots of bunnies and how to take care of one or two pet rabbits. We recommend you focus on literature/blogs that provide information for the pet rabbit not the breeder unless you're interested in breeding.
We're always here to help and will answer any question we can. We hope to make owning a pet rabbit fun and easy and to take as much of the uncertainty out of it as possible! Pet rabbits are wonderful pets, full of personality and potential. You can litter box train them, agility train them, or just hold them in your lap while you do your homework! Please feel free to contact us with any questions on anything about rabbits and we'll do our best to help you or refer you to someone who can!
Holland Lops
Feeding - This information is a good starting point and is based on the feed we use (Nutrena Naturewise Premium Rabbit 15%) You will likely have to adjust the amounts up or down a little based on your individual bunny and chosen feed (scroll down further to see more advice on this.)
How much and how often to feed:
-Weaned to 10 weeks of age: free choice (ensure bunny always has feed 24 hours a day)
-10 to 12 weeks of age: 1/4 cup feed twice a day
-12 weeks and older: 2/3 cup once a day
All Rabbits
Rabbits should be VERY excited at feeding time. They usually pace and hop around excitedly when you feed them and they should wolf down the first quarter of their food immediately. If they aren't doing this, check their water, they stop eating if they can't get water.
Watering - Rabbits need access to fresh, clean water 24 hours a day. Rabbits have to drink water while they're eating. They will stop eating if they don't have water. A good water bottle is very important, and one with a large enough ball and spout so the rabbit can get a good flow of water while eating. Do not use bottles smaller than 32 oz or the rabbit will have a hard time consuming enough water quickly enough while eating. An adult rabbit should be drinking at least 32 oz of water every 3 - 5 days. If you notice your bunny not eating check that they can get water. Going off feed is often the first sign that a rabbit is dehydrated.
Note that a slowly leaking water bottle can trick you into thinking your rabbit is drinking water as the water level will go down without you noticing it's slowly leaking all day. There are lots of lousy water bottles on the market that slowly leak but do not dispense at all. Be sure your bunny is drinking water and that there isn't a leak. In our supplies link we list a water bottle that we know works well. This is the 32 oz Lixit Deluxe. You can also use a crock to water a rabbit, and although this is the most efficient way for a rabbit to drink, you need to change the water twice a day and wash the crock once a week.
Adjusting Feed Amounts - When you're petting your bunny run your hand over the back and hips and gently feel the ribs. If bunny's ribs are very pronounced and easy to feel, and the hips protrude and feel bony then increase the feed amount a bit. If the ribs feel meaty and the hips are fairly smooth and don't poke you then bunny is just about right. If you can't feel ribs at all, there are fat rolls and you can't find the hips at all, decrease the feed a bit.
Treats: Do not give rabbits under 5 months of age treats! Their digestive systems cannot handle them and you can make them very sick! For rabbits 5 months and older we recommend no more than two treats per week. Examples of popular rabbit treats include: a few baby carrots, half a whole carrot, an apple slice, a leaf of green leaf lettuce, 1/2 tablespoon raw shelled sunflower seeds, alfalfa cubes that are intended for rabbits. There are LOTS of fun rabbit treats, but please do a little internet research first. There are some items that can make rabbits sick.
Recommended feed ingredients: Look for Copper Sulfate (prevents a common parasitic disease called Coccidiosis) and Yucca Schidigera Extract (Yucca plant extract that reduces the production of ammonia during digestion which reduces urine odor). These supplements are not in all rabbit feeds, but they are extremely beneficial and we highly recommend feeds that include them.
Rabbits can be picky eaters, don't be surprised if they turn there noses up at some feeds and wolf down others. Transition feeds slowly. If you need to change feeds mix your current feed with your new feed gradually over about 14 days slowly increasing the new feed into the mixture until they are completely on the new feed. Rabbits have very sensitive digestive systems.
If your rabbit digs at and spills the food out of the dish: Try raising the dish about 4 inches so that the rabbit has to stand on his/her tippy toes to reach the food. If they have to stand on their front feet to eat (vs laying down) they can't dig. I use metal dishes that I can drill holes in the bottom of so that I can wire the dish to the side of the cage a few inches up so they can't reach it to dig. Also, J-feeders have a lip on the inside of the feeder that helps prevent the feed from being spilled if they dig at their feed.
Cold/Freezing Weather:
Watering during freezing weather - At a minimum, ensure the rabbit has access to water for an hour at a time at least twice a day. Always ensure the rabbit has access to water while feeding.
Rabbits can easily handle very cold temperatures as long as they have access to liquid water and the temperature change is gradual. However, if there is a drastic change in temperature (lows decrease more than 20 degrees in 24 hours) they will be stressed and should be brought in to the garage or somewhere warmer. In other words, if the lows have been in the 40s for several days and all of sudden in one day they drop to the 20s, you should probably bring the bunny into the garage or somewhere prior to the temp dropping that fast. Abrupt temperature changes are hard on them. Gradual temperature changes are fine. They can do just fine in subzero temps if they're already used to it.
Hot weather: Rabbits do not like hot weather. Ensure the cage/hutch is in the shade. If it gets over 80 fill a two-liter plastic bottle 2/3 with water and freeze it. Then put the frozen bottle in their cage and they'll lay next to it to cool off. You can also carefully mist or wet their ears (don't get water into the canal). Rabbits use their ears to cool off. Our rabbits seem to do o.k. in the shade, with frozen two-liter bottles up to 100 degrees. They also like lots of ventilation and moving air when it's hot.
Toenail Clipping: Just like dogs and cats, rabbits need their toenails clipped. They get VERY sharp nails that can result in painful scratches, especially to children. A well handled rabbit will happily let you cut it's nails with a dog or cat nail trimmer. We're happy to show you how to do this, or to do it for you if you bought one of our bunnies. Just contact us!
Worming/disease/etc: Rabbits can get worms/parasites/ear mites/fur mites similar to what dogs and cats can get. This can be prevented by not letting your rabbit get on the ground or eat lawn/grass. Do not pick and feed your bunny grass or clover/plants from your yard, this is where the worm/parasites typically come from, especially if you have dogs/cats or if your yard is frequented by wildlife such as racoons, squirrels, etc. Rabbits can easily be treated for worms and mites with products available at feed/farm stores. However - most of these products aren't labeled or dosed for rabbits, and some dewormers and mite treatments are not safe for rabbits. Please contact your vet, us, or do some reading/research prior to using these products. Also note that pet store, feed/farm store employees typically know very little about rabbits. Rabbits are not common enough for average clerks to know much about, so please be careful when treating rabbits yourself.
Although it's rather rare for a rabbit that lives in a hutch at least three feet off the ground or in an indoor set-up to get sick, there are diseases rabbits can get. If you notice unusual symptoms such as thick white mucous coming out of the nose, lots of sneezing, tiredness, diarrhea etc. Contact us or a vet for advice. There are a couple of vets in Eugene and Creswell that treat rabbits and we can help you find them. A typical vet visit for a rabbit is $60 - $80. We also may be able to help you utilize products available at feed stores to help treat some problems. Feel free to contact us!
Fleas: If your bunny gets fleas you can use a product called Advantage for small dogs and puppies. Only use this product when your bunny is over two pounds (about 4-months old for a Holland Lop and 2-months old for a Californian). Follow the directions for Advantage for a puppy, and make sure it's applied where the bunny can't lick it off. Advantage is a liquid product that is applied behind the neck of the animal. You can find it at most pet and feed stores.
Another option is to dust the bunny with diatomaceous earth, which is a harmless product that can be found at garden stores for slug and snail control. Diatomaceous earth is natural occuring and does not contain chemicals, it works by dehydrating insects to death. You would apply this directly to and work into the fur avoiding the eyes. Although I've never used it, there is a lot of reference to it for flea control in rabbits.
DO NOT USE FRONTLINE ON RABBITS, it's very toxic for rabbits. Also DO NOT use flea dip products on rabbits.
If your bunny is outside and 3-feet off the ground fleas should not be a problem. Fleas may be a problem if your bunny is inside and you have cats or dogs that are not treated for fleas.
Life Span: 7 - 10 years if disease free and well taken care of.
Recommended references: There are lots of blogs, internet articles, books, etc with great information on rabbits. Note that there is a significant difference in how to raise rabbits as a breeder with lots of bunnies and how to take care of one or two pet rabbits. We recommend you focus on literature/blogs that provide information for the pet rabbit not the breeder unless you're interested in breeding.
We're always here to help and will answer any question we can. We hope to make owning a pet rabbit fun and easy and to take as much of the uncertainty out of it as possible! Pet rabbits are wonderful pets, full of personality and potential. You can litter box train them, agility train them, or just hold them in your lap while you do your homework! Please feel free to contact us with any questions on anything about rabbits and we'll do our best to help you or refer you to someone who can!